Koh Shhhhhhhh

Koh Shhhhh
Ryan has a break in classes so we're running away to a remote island that I won't name so the power of the Internet doesn't ruin it. Maybe I'll turn you off of it by telling you the only room that is within our budget is our worst room to date. We call it "camping with air conditioning." Amenities include: sink that immediately throws its contents onto the floor so you might as well just spit on the floor, four foot hole in the wall that's covered with a board that's held in place at the corners with duct tape, other duct tape covered holes which haven't deterred the mice chewing holes in them, mini ants galore, water that sometimes runs and sometimes doesn't, wifi area is located under the blistering sun, and the remote area means the motorbike rentals are expensive.

Aside from that, we're practically by ourselves, on the prettiest beach we've ever seen with water so clear it seems strange you can't drink it. It's a postcard view in every direction. It was a week of morning workouts and swimming, really basic Thai food, beach hopping, and amazing sunsets with great beach dogs. 
Our beach dog Sandy was a cold-hearted killer. He would dig out sand crabs and play with them until they were dead, then go dig up another. Every property here has a pack of dogs associated with it which can get a little scary walking at night to try and play with the rumored bioluminescent plankton.
Our go to restaurant within walking distance with kind people and good food and lots to look at. 
This is our incredibly fat house monkey Mulan. She bares her teeth at women but loves men because she eats their body hair. If Ryan passes her without petting her, she clasps her hands together, rocks her body and makes a nibbling motion with her mouth while tilting her head from side to side. It looks like she's talking to you! 
Loose sand does not make for good motorbiking conditions. 
Clean up station for a really yummy Northern Thai food restaurant. 
One night it looked like a storm would strike at any minute and we had perfect front row seats. 
Until a man more dedicated to sunsets than I, claimed the spot right in front of us when there's no one else on the beach. Go figure. 
But he missed the rainbow sky finish. 


Slice of Pai

Pai
People warn about the road to Pai, about the 762 turns in the three hour drive, about how even those with a sound stomach get sick. Being known to deal with bouts of car sickness myself, I doped up on Dramamine and arrived safely and thoroughly out of it. Ryan and Marc were dripping with sweat because as much as the van has A/C, it cannot compete with the 12 bodies and a boiling hot lava road that heats the van floor so you cannot touch it. But we're here in this small hippie town in the mountains. There's talk of how Pai is no longer the real Thailand, that it's overrun with backpackers, but for us it's low season and we made four new friends instantly so that's fun. The night market shows how much westerners have influenced this town with so much lasagna, loaded baked potatoes and mac n'cheese. And you better believe I was first in line for a loaded baked potato! Mmmmm home, sort of! 
We started with a day of touring the main spots in a songthaew (pickup truck taxi with covered padded benches). You'd think I'd be prepared with Dramamine to go out on this tour but I completely forgot and almost lost it by the first stop. These turns are serious. After asking him to slow down, I ended up sitting inside with our driver Andy. His sister is teaching him English to help with his tour taxi business and made him a mix CD of American music to help. We sway through the hills listening to original and interesting remake versions of "Achy Breaky Heart," "Don't Speak," "Torn," "Kiss Me," and so many more. I was really loving our singalong! Our friends Kat and Roy were in another car but on the same route so we saw them the whole way. They're chefs from Boulder, CO and are using their travels as research to open an international tapas food truck when they get home. Great idea!!

First stop was a great view and a crazy "manual Ferris wheel". We needed more muscle to be able to pull down the seat to get a fourth person on, but then I really don't know what happens when all seats are full... Then we hit up the caves where we're handed to a guide who doesn't speak much English so we only learn the names of the formations. There were three formations of "tooth", one "monkey," and one "boob." Good thing caves are cool to crawl around anyways! On our raft ride through the caves with huge fish following us, our guide slaps my back and when I look back to see why, he says, "spider," and I don't want to be here anymore.
We hit up the lesser known hot springs where the locals hang. Received mud masks from the kids and I spent the next hour losing my suit while throwing them and splashing all around. Onto a swimming hole where all sorts of locals gathered to get drunk or have a shower or just play in the running river water. 
And lastly, sunset at the Pai Canyon which is unlike any canyon I've seen before. Instead of admiring the depths from the wide rim and walking trails down into the canyon, the narrow top edge of the canyon is the only place to walk with a steep drop on either side. 
We explored the next few days. One day at the famous Circus Hostel where my existing love for hula hooping grew after practicing with some women who really know how to move. Another day hanging with our British buds Josh and Zoe, motorbiking to a dry waterfall, hanging at the pool club, catching sunset with a massive Buddha and drinking blue raspberry shakes on their porch. 

Pai is so great because you can do so many things within easy walking distance. You can go to an insane party, chill out at a groovy lounge, learn circus tricks, hang at the pool club or chill by a quiet river all at your fingertips. There's great live music and such open friendly people that we felt if we didn't leave, we would stay forever. But it's SO HOT that instead of paying for a pool club every day, we're running away to the ocean!


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